Ukusukela ekupheleni kuka-Okthobha, bekukho iintsuku ezininzi ezilandelelanayo zoqhanqalazo lwabasebenzi kwishishini lelaphu befuna ukonyuswa kwemivuzo kwikomkhulu kunye neendawo eziphambili zemizi-mveliso e-Bangladesh.Lo mkhwa uphinde wavusa iingxoxo malunga nokuxhomekeka kwexesha elide kweshishini lempahla kubasebenzi abaphantsi.
Imvelaphi yawo wonke umcimbi kukuba njengelizwe lesibini ngobukhulu emhlabeni emva kweTshayina, iBangladesh ineefektri zempahla ezimalunga nama-3500 kwaye iqeshe abasebenzi abamalunga nezigidi ezi-4.Ukuze kuhlangatyezwane neemfuno zeempawu ezaziwayo-kakuhle kwihlabathi jikelele, abasebenzi belaphu badla ngokufuna ukusebenza ixesha elongezelelekileyo, kodwa umvuzo omncinane abanokuwufumana kuphela yi-8300 Bangladesh Taka/ngenyanga, emalunga ne-550 RMB okanye i-75 yeedola zase-US.
Ubuncinci iifektri ezingama-300 zivaliwe
Bejongene nokunyuka kwamaxabiso okuzinzile okuphantse kube yi-10% kulo nyaka uphelileyo, abasebenzi beempahla e-Bangladesh baxoxa ngemigangatho emitsha yomvuzo ophantsi kunye nemibutho yabanini bamashishini boshishino lwamalaphu.Imfuno yakutshanje evela kubasebenzi ukuba phantse kathathu umgangatho ophantsi umvuzo ukuya 20390 Taka, kodwa abanini bamashishini ecetywayo kuphela ukunyuka 25% ukuya 10400 Taka, ukwenza imeko nangakumbi.
Amapolisa athi ubuncinane iifektri ezingama-300 ziye zavalwa ebudeni boqhankqalazo olwathabatha iveki yonke.Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, uqhanqalazo lubangele ukubhubha kwabasebenzi ababini kunye nokwenzakala okuninzi.
Inkokeli yombutho weempahla yathi ngolwesiHlanu odlulileyo i-Levi's kunye ne-H&M zezona mveliso ziphezulu zehlabathi eziye zayeka ukuvelisa e-Bangladesh.
Imizi-mveliso emininzi iye yaphangwa ngabasebenzi ababegwayimbile, yaye eminye engamakhulu iye yavalwa ngabaninimzi ukunqanda umonakalo owenziwa ngabom.UKalpona Akter, uSihlalo we-Bangladesh Federation of Clothing and Industrial Workers (BGIWF), uxelele i-Agence France Presse ukuba iifektri eziyekiweyo zibandakanya "iifektri ezininzi ezinkulu zelizwe ezivelisa iimpahla phantse kuzo zonke iimpawu eziphambili zaseNtshona kunye nabathengisi".
Wongeze wathi: "Iimveliso ziquka iGap, iWal Mart, iH&M, iZara, i-Inditex, iBestseller, ekaLevi, iMarks kunye neSpencer, iPrayimari kunye neAldi."
Isithethi sikaPrimark sithe umthengisi wefashoni okwiDublin esekwe ngokukhawuleza "ayikafumani siphazamiso kwikhonkco lethu lokubonelela".
Isithethi songeze, "Sisanxibelelana nababoneleli bethu, abanye babo bavale iifektri zabo okwethutyana ngeli xesha."Abavelisi abaye bafumana umonakalo ngexesha lesi siganeko abafuni ukuxela amagama e-brand ababambisene nawo, besoyika ukuphulukana nee-odolo zabathengi.
Umahluko omkhulu phakathi kwabasebenzi nolawulo
Ukuphendula imeko eyandayo, uFaruque Hassan, usihlalo weBangladesh iGarment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), naye wakhalaza ngemeko yolu shishino: ukuxhasa imfuno yokonyuka kwemivuzo yabasebenzi baseBangladeshi kuthetha ukuba iimpawu zempahla yaseNtshona kufuneka ukwandisa amaxabiso odolo zabo.Nangona ezi mpawu ngokuphandle zibanga ukuba zixhasa ukonyuswa kwemivuzo yabasebenzi, enyanisweni, zigrogrisa ngokudlulisela iiodolo kwamanye amazwe xa iindleko zinyuka.
Ekupheleni kukaSeptemba kulo nyaka, u-Hassan wabhalela i-American Apparel and Footwear Association, enethemba lokuba baya kuza ngaphambili kwaye bacenge iimpawu ezinkulu zokunyusa amaxabiso e-odolo yempahla.Ubhale kule leta wathi, “Oku kubaluleke kakhulu kutshintsho olulula ukuya kwimigangatho emitsha yemivuzo.Iifektri zaseBangladesh zijongene nemeko yemfuno ebuthathaka yehlabathi kwaye zikwiphupha elibi elifana 'nemeko'.
Okwangoku, i-Bangladesh Minimum Wage Commission iququzelela onke amaqela abandakanyekayo, kwaye iikowuti ezivela kubanini bamashishini nazo zibhekwa "njengezinto ezingenakwenzeka" ngurhulumente.Kodwa abanini bemizi-mveliso bathetha ukuba ukuba ubuncinci bemfuno yomvuzo wabasebenzi idlula i-20000 Taka ifezekisiwe, iBangladesh iya kuphulukana nenzuzo yayo yokukhuphisana.
Njengomzekelo weshishini "wefashoni ekhawulezayo", iimveliso eziphambili zikhuphisana ukubonelela abathengi ngesiseko sexabiso eliphantsi, elisekelwe kwingeniso ephantsi yabasebenzi kumazwe ase-Asia athumela ngaphandle.Iimveliso ziya kunyanzela imizi-mveliso ukuba ibonelele ngamaxabiso aphantsi, nto leyo eya kuthi ekugqibeleni ibonakale kwimivuzo yabasebenzi.Njengelinye lawona mazwe athumela amalaphu kumazwe angaphandle, i-Bangladesh, enemivuzo ephantsi yabasebenzi, ijongene nokuqhambuka okugcweleyo kokungavisisani.
Zisabela njani izigebenga zaseNtshona?
Ukujongana neemfuno zabasebenzi belaphu baseBangladeshi, ezinye iibrendi ezaziwayo ziye zenza iimpendulo ezisemthethweni.
Isithethi se-H&M sithe inkampani iyakuxhasa ukungeniswa kowona mvuzo umncinci umiselweyo ukujongana neendleko zokuhlala zabasebenzi kunye neentsapho zabo.Isithethi salile ukuphawula malunga nokuba i-H&M iya kunyusa amaxabiso oodolo ukuxhasa ukunyuka kwemivuzo, kodwa yabonisa ukuba inkampani inendlela yokusebenza yokuthenga evumela ukuba iiplanti zokulungisa zinyuse amaxabiso ukubonisa ukunyuka kwemivuzo.
Isithethi senkampani yabazali bakaZara, i-Inditex, sithe inkampani isandula ukukhupha ingxelo yoluntu ithembisa ukuxhasa abasebenzi kwikhonkco lokubonelela ukuhlangabezana nemivuzo yabo yokuziphilisa.
Ngokwamaxwebhu anikezelwe yi-H&M, kukho malunga ne-600000 yabasebenzi base-Bangladeshi kulo lonke unikezelo lwe-H&M ngo-2022, kunye nomvuzo wenyanga ophakathi we-134 yeedola, ngaphezulu kowona mgangatho usezantsi e-Bangladesh.Nangona kunjalo, xa kuthelekiswa ngokuthe tye, abasebenzi baseCambodian kwikhonkco lokubonelela nge-H&M banokufumana umndilili wama-293 eedola ngenyanga.Ngokwembono ye-GDP yomntu ngamnye, iBangladesh iphezulu kakhulu kuneCambodia.
Ukongeza, imivuzo ye-H&M eya kubasebenzi baseIndiya iphezulu kancinane nge-10% kunaleyo yabasebenzi base-Bangladeshi, kodwa i-H&M iphinda ithenge iimpahla ezininzi e-Bangladesh kunaseIndiya naseKhambodiya.
Isihlangu saseJamani kunye nempahla ye-brand Puma ikwakhankanyiwe kwingxelo yayo yonyaka ka-2022 ukuba umvuzo ohlawulwa kubasebenzi baseBangladeshi uphezulu kakhulu kunomlinganiselo omncinci, kodwa eli nani liyi-70% kuphela "yemilinganiselo yomvuzo wokuphila wendawo" echazwe yimibutho yangaphandle. umlinganiselo apho imivuzo yanele ukunika abasebenzi umgangatho wokuphila ophucukileyo bona neentsapho zabo).Abasebenzi abasebenzela iPuma eKhambodiya naseVietnam bafumana ingeniso edibana nebenchmark yemivuzo yokuphila.
I-Puma ikwathe kwingxelo yayo kubaluleke kakhulu ukujongana nomba wemivuzo, njengoko lo mngeni ungenako ukusonjululwa ngophawu olunye.IPuma iphinde yathi uninzi lwababoneleli abaphambili e-Bangladesh banemigaqo-nkqubo yokuqinisekisa ukuba umvuzo wabasebenzi uyahlangabezana neemfuno zekhaya, kodwa inkampani “isenezinto ezininzi ekufuneka izihoye” ukuze iguqulele imigaqo-nkqubo ukuba isebenze ngakumbi.
Ishishini lempahla lase-Bangladesh libe “nembali emnyama” eninzi kwinkqubo yalo yophuhliso.Eyona nto iyaziwa kakhulu kukudilika kwesakhiwo kwisithili saseSava ngo-2013, apho iifektri ezininzi zempahla zaqhubeka zifuna abasebenzi ukuba basebenze emva kokufumana isilumkiso sikarhulumente "ngokuqhekeka kwesakhiwo" kwaye babaxelele ukuba akukho miba yokhuseleko. .Esi siganeko ekugqibeleni sakhokelela ekufeni kwe-1134 kwaye sabangela ukuba iimpawu zamazwe ngamazwe zigxile ekuphuculeni indawo yokusebenza yasekhaya ngelixa besonwabela amaxabiso aphantsi.
Ixesha lokuposa: Nov-15-2023